Mallorie’s Nepal Beta: Trekking, Ama Dablam, Lobuche

For my first Himalayan foray, I wanted a route that was inspiring but known. Ama Dablam is exactly that. My primary goal with this trip was to learn about how to get around, how to manage expedition logistics, to learn what resources were and weren’t available to me.

Infinite Bliss: Not the infinite choss I expected (4 Star)

It’s not very often that you get to clip bolts in an alpine setting for 23 consecutive pitches with very few B.S. walking pitches to link up the route. I guess you could say that I consider myself a connoisseur of alpine bolts (or a lazy alpinist.)

A Frozen Moment

I tried to place a screw in thick ice covered by a layer of slush. The screw wouldn’t go in. I tried a second screw. And this is how I simultaneously clogged and eliminated two screws from my rack. When I realized that I wasn’t going to get a screw where I wanted one, I willed myself to climb higher to find a better placement.

Return to Red Rock Canyon

After my first season of learning how to climb outside, I visited Red Rock Canyon. A couple of friends and I piled into my Dodge Durango and we made the epic voyage south. Here’s a short list of the things that I did wrong on that first trip: zero trip planning, zero climbing with myContinue reading “Return to Red Rock Canyon”

Welcome to Alaska (aka Crevasse Whip)

The fall stopped just as quickly as it had started and I found myself slumped over, hanging in my harness deep inside a crevasse. I thought to myself: that’s quite the welcome to Alaska.

Utah: A travel blog about 26 hours of Greyhound hell

The Climbing Part After five years of climbing, I finally made it to Indian Creek. The first day, I ran along the base of Supercrack Buttress and put my hand or fingers into every crack within reach. I noticed that as I pulled down, it felt like the sandstone pushed back. Everything felt incredibly climbable.Continue reading “Utah: A travel blog about 26 hours of Greyhound hell”